This is another dish my grandmother used to make that falls into the genre of “cucina povera” (poor kitchen) or peasant cooking. There are several versions of the legend surrounding the origin of this dish, but as the name indicates, they all have something to do with prostitutes. The version I grew up with says it was popular among “working women” because it was a cheap, quick, and easy meal to prepare between clients. Another version has it that the strong fragrance of the dish was a form of advertising to lure customers. This is one of the most delicious and flavorful pasta dishes and can be made easily and quickly with simple ingredients. Buon appetito a tutti!

Serves 4-6
Ingredients: (for a vegetarian version of this recipe, omit the pancetta/pepperoni and anchovies)

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 3-4 cloves of garlic lightly smashed and peeled

• 3-4 anchovy fillets (omit for vegetarian version)

• 28-ounce can of whole plum tomatoes (See *Note about plumb tomatoes)

• 2 tablespoons of diced pancetta or pepperoni (optional and not strictly traditional, but adds a note of flavor; omit for vegetarian version)

• ½ cup pitted oil cured black olives or Kalamata olives

• 3-4 tablespoons capers

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• Crushed red pepper flakes to taste (optional: start with ¼ teaspoon)

• 1 pound linguine or other substantial long pasta (I like spaghetti rigati or bucatini)

• Grated Parmesan

• Chopped fresh parsley, oregano, marjoram or basil leaves for garnish (I like basil.)

Preparation:

1. Bring a pot of water to boil and salt it.

2. Drain the tomatoes and crush with a fork or hands.

3. Warm 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta or pepperoni and stir for a minute or two until it just begins to brown.

4. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, and anchovies in skillet over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is lightly golden and the anchovies begin to break down.

5. Add the crushed tomatoes to skillet, with some salt and pepper. (*Note: you get a lot of salt from the anchovies, capers and olives so be careful with the salt.) Raise heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes break down and mixture becomes thickens, about 10 minutes.

6. Stir in the olives, capers, and continue to simmer.

7. While the sauce simmers, cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, until it is tender al dente (not mushy like canned spaghetti). Drain the pasta and toss immediately with sauce.

8. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary, garnish with herbs if you like, and serve with grated parmesan and crusty bread.

*Note about plum tomatoes: https://www.tastecooking.com/fake-rolex-canned-tomatoes/

Wine pairing: serve a full bodied red wine like an Italian Chianti or “Super Tuscan” wine made with Sangiovese grapes with this dish. Merlot, Syrah, or Zinfandel based wines would work as well.